And then, there was Another...

Those of you following my blog may have noticed that promoting wine ageing and preservation is one of my goals. Accomplishing this has been especially challenging in Distomo--my Greek birthplace--as people aren't used to bottling and preserving their wine, and wine cellars...oh well, they don't exist. My efforts to convince the local winemakers--most of them good friends of mine--to consider having one, were totally unsuccessful. Then, I thought one leads by example and three years ago, our wine cellar was completed with considerable and planned fanfare. My friends came to see it and we ended up hosting several wine tasting events in the past three years. The news spread with the speed of wild fire and soon most of the village was talking about it. I felt I was getting somewhere finally. Two of my close winemaker friends were particularly interested. Kostas Panourgias was one of them.

Kostas, a former contractor, is a man of many skills and interests. Having retired young from a successful construction business, is spending his time working in his vegetable garden, taking care of his olive trees, and, most importantly, tending to his vineyards and making wine. He and Kostas Sfoundouris, owner of Βερβά wines, were two of the first winemakers in Distomo to bottle their wine. Kostas had a casual storage area were he kept some of his bottles, but he was clearly a man searching for some better and more permanent. It was a very pleasant surprise indeed to learn upon my arrival in my village this summer that Kostas had built a beautiful wine cellar; he was proud to pose for me in front of it before I left Greece a couple of weeks ago.

I have a feeling that when I return next Spring I will find another wine cellar. Let's see if my prediction turns out to be correct...

Wines of Nemea

We had planned to travel to Nafplio and Nemea since the beginning of the summer and as the time for our return to the US is fast approaching, we decided to finally do it. And the trip was absolutely fantastic. Nafplio, the first capital of Greece after she gained her independence from the Ottomans in the 1820s, is a stunning coastal city in northeastern Peloponnese full of color and character. A bit to the northeast from Nafplio lies the territory of Nemea.

Nemea is rich in history and mythology, perhaps more known for the Nemean lion killed by the mythical hero Hercules. Since Homer, Nemea was also known for its vineyards and fine wine. Today it produces the Agiorgitiko varietal, arguably the finest red wine in Greece. Our destination was the Lafkiotis winery and we were very pleased indeed with the wine and the facilities.

In ancient Kleones, within the viticultural area of Nemea, the Lafkiotis family has been making wine since 1963. While the red Agiorgitiko is the prime varietal of the winery, other red and white grapes are used in their wine making. Their facilities are modern and include an attractive wine tasting and wine storing facility. They are open to visitors and the newly refurbished winery belongs to the "Wine Routes" of the Peloponnese. The visitors can be offered tours, information and the opportunity to taste their fine wines. We were greeted and escorted by Panagioti Lafkiotis and his son, Petros, a very young "apprentice" who was observing the wine tasting ritual very closely.

We will post in a few days our review of the Lafkiotis wines. Till then, cheers...

1998 Ερμίνος--Messinian Local Red Wine

Most people are familiar with one of the the products of the Messinian region--the famous kalamata olives. This area of the Peloponnesian peninsula, however, is rich in history and culture. In addition to its famous olives, it produces excellent olive oil and is one of the best producers of red, white and rose wines.

I had the opportunity to taste one of its local red wines back in 2002. It was a 1998 Ερμίνος (Herminos) red. It was a limited family production and not certain if they are still producing under the same label. It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache Rouge, and Merlot--one of my favorite blends. Deep ruby color, it was still rich in tannins but flavorful. Eight years later, it has a brilliant ruby color, rich body, well balanced, a very pleasant lingering taste, with no signs of decline. Should be good for another 2-5 years.

The Wine Cellar gives it a deserving rating of 91 points.

Meet the Winegrowers of Distomo...

Loukas Kastritis
Winemaking isn't something you do casually. It requires hard work, knowledge, attention to details, organization skills and above all a passion for viticulture. Loukas Kastritis possesses all. Born in a farming family, he was influenced in a young age by relatives who had a love for the land and what it provides. He was initiated in the secrets of viticulture and he has been sharpening his skills and expanding his knowledge ever since. Loukas is perhaps the poster boy of the "weekend residents" and the best winegrower of Distomo. He tends his vineyards with a religious devotion and unmistakable pride. Considering that he is growing grapes for his own use and enjoyment, the quality of wines he produces rivals and in some instances exceeds those commercially produced in Greece and abroad. Often, I find it too difficult to resist the temptation to tell Loukas that he should bottle his wines and build a cellar for preserving and ageing them. Initially, he brushed off the idea as wines "are best young and fresh out of the barrel". But 3-4 months after the barrels are open and in the heat of July and August, I would bring up the subject again as the wines are

noticeably oxidized resulting to an almost undrinkable potion.

In March when I arrived in Distomo this year, Loukas--who is, by the way, my dear cousin--asked me to come to his estate to see something. He took me to the basement of the house where he proudly showed me a recently renovated area which will become his wine cellar. I was extremely pleased both for him and for me as I felt that some of the seeds I have been sowing for the past 4-5 years are sprouting finally. So, stay tuned for further developments in the Loukas Kastritis' Vineyards.

2003 Βερβά Red

Early in the turn of the new century my village experienced sort of a renaissance as wine making became popular again. Many "weekend-residents", as they are known because they escape from Athens to the village during the weekend and holidays, bought land in prime wine growing areas, or added and replaced their vines--those that were fortunate to own grape vines. The first vintage was in 2003 and it was my first acquaintance with local wines since I left from Greece as a teenager. The wines were French varietals--blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah--and initially light-bodied, typical of a young vineyard. It had a brilliant red garnet color and the blending of all three was an excellent combination of color, taste and body.

When I first tasted the 2003 Red from the Βερβά vineyards in 2004 it was a modest red wine, light bodied and lacking character. Over the years the wine improved a bit but still remained an uninteresting one. So I was very pleased when I tried it again in May 2010. While it remains a light body--both in appearance and taste--it is now very smooth and very well balanced. While it is lean, it is also lively and refreshing. It is very good with light mediterranean food. Its color remains a brilliant ruby and it should be good for another 3-4 years in a cellar. I give it 89 points.

There is a point that should not be missed here--for the neophytes in wine ageing. The improvement in this wine from 2004 to 2010 with proper preservation is remarkable. Although it hasn't become a great wine, mostly because of the age of the vines in 2003, it is now a good wine!

Adding to the Family...

For those of you who have been following my blog you should know that I had been greatly anticipating my return to my village and my re-union with my wine cellar. So, you may think it is strange that I have hardly talked about it. You can be assured that it is not because of lack of interest on my part--I visited the cellar first thing in the morning after my late night arrival to Distomo. It has been a bit hectic with lots and lots of chores with the house and the garden. It's spring and the planting calendar imposed ny mother nature is rather strict.
Finally I was able to devote some time to the cellar and begin the important task of adding to the wine stock. Since I don't have a vineyard, the wines come mostly from local producers. I buy bulk wine and bottle it myself--with the assistance of Alexandra, my life and wine cellar partner. Last night it was the first such bottling operation of the 2010 season and I am very happy to report that it went very smoothly--although very tiring. The whole process is manual, of course, and not very well streamlined yet. Fifty bottles--30 red and 20 white--were corked and placed on their ageing racks.
Bottling wine is the culmination of the wine making process and one which is almost a spiritual experience--at least to me--and marks the beginning of the wine maturation. It's also a sensual experience as it gives us the opportunity to taste the new vintages--a rich reward for all the hard work. We bottled red and white wines from the Βερβά vineyards. Although a wine review of these will the subject of another posting in the near future, my initial reaction was one of mixed findings. While the red was an excellent one--perhaps the best yet of these varietals--the white fell a bit short of our expectations. It will be interesting to watch these as they age in the next several years...

Wines of Crete...

Crete has the most traditional vineyard of Europe. Grape cultivation has taken place in Crete since the Minoan era, 4,000 years ago . The vineyards of Crete produce white, rose and red wines as well as raisins from the variety "Soultanina" and the table grape "Rozaki". Visit the Wines of Crete for an incredible journey to the heartland of the oldest Greek civilization, but be prepared for going back again and again. Breathtaking landscapes, rugged terrains, and the fiercely independent, proud and most hospitable Cretans will make it an unforgettable experience.

Wine Tours: Nemea

Overshadowed by French and other European wines, Greek wines are finally receiving attention and respect. There are excellent wine tours in Greece and there is no better way to learn about some of Greece's finest wines than to visit the famous wineries of Nemea in the peninsula of Peloponnese in southern Greece. Not only it has excellent wines, it's one of the premier travel destinations rich in history, culture and natural beauty.