And then, there was Another...

Those of you following my blog may have noticed that promoting wine ageing and preservation is one of my goals. Accomplishing this has been especially challenging in Distomo--my Greek birthplace--as people aren't used to bottling and preserving their wine, and wine cellars...oh well, they don't exist. My efforts to convince the local winemakers--most of them good friends of mine--to consider having one, were totally unsuccessful. Then, I thought one leads by example and three years ago, our wine cellar was completed with considerable and planned fanfare. My friends came to see it and we ended up hosting several wine tasting events in the past three years. The news spread with the speed of wild fire and soon most of the village was talking about it. I felt I was getting somewhere finally. Two of my close winemaker friends were particularly interested. Kostas Panourgias was one of them.

Kostas, a former contractor, is a man of many skills and interests. Having retired young from a successful construction business, is spending his time working in his vegetable garden, taking care of his olive trees, and, most importantly, tending to his vineyards and making wine. He and Kostas Sfoundouris, owner of Βερβά wines, were two of the first winemakers in Distomo to bottle their wine. Kostas had a casual storage area were he kept some of his bottles, but he was clearly a man searching for some better and more permanent. It was a very pleasant surprise indeed to learn upon my arrival in my village this summer that Kostas had built a beautiful wine cellar; he was proud to pose for me in front of it before I left Greece a couple of weeks ago.

I have a feeling that when I return next Spring I will find another wine cellar. Let's see if my prediction turns out to be correct...

Wines of Nemea

We had planned to travel to Nafplio and Nemea since the beginning of the summer and as the time for our return to the US is fast approaching, we decided to finally do it. And the trip was absolutely fantastic. Nafplio, the first capital of Greece after she gained her independence from the Ottomans in the 1820s, is a stunning coastal city in northeastern Peloponnese full of color and character. A bit to the northeast from Nafplio lies the territory of Nemea.

Nemea is rich in history and mythology, perhaps more known for the Nemean lion killed by the mythical hero Hercules. Since Homer, Nemea was also known for its vineyards and fine wine. Today it produces the Agiorgitiko varietal, arguably the finest red wine in Greece. Our destination was the Lafkiotis winery and we were very pleased indeed with the wine and the facilities.

In ancient Kleones, within the viticultural area of Nemea, the Lafkiotis family has been making wine since 1963. While the red Agiorgitiko is the prime varietal of the winery, other red and white grapes are used in their wine making. Their facilities are modern and include an attractive wine tasting and wine storing facility. They are open to visitors and the newly refurbished winery belongs to the "Wine Routes" of the Peloponnese. The visitors can be offered tours, information and the opportunity to taste their fine wines. We were greeted and escorted by Panagioti Lafkiotis and his son, Petros, a very young "apprentice" who was observing the wine tasting ritual very closely.

We will post in a few days our review of the Lafkiotis wines. Till then, cheers...

Hidden in Hungary, Treasures on the Vine

It caught my attention as soon as I read the heading in NYTimes this mornig: "Hidden in Hungary, Treasures on the Vine". So I kept reading..."THE mold covered every surface of the cellar, coating the walls and ceilings in layers of loose black gauze. On one shelf, sheets of mold had grown so thick that it was nearly impossible to tell what was underneath, making the ancient wine bottles seem like ash-colored homunculi, an army of toy soldiers made from fungus.

Walking farther into the cellar, I ducked under a low ceiling and felt dangling fingers of mold touch my head.

“The mold is fed by the wine that evaporates,” said my guide, Zsuzsanna Szobonya, leading me into a hexagonal tasting room where even the arabesque chandelier overhead was adorned with more black fluff. “Try this,” she said.

Standing in the dim light, I sniffed, then tasted. Though the cellar air was damp and musty, the scent from the glass was richly aromatic and floral. The wine, a Tokaji aszu, was full of citrus blossoms and fruit in the nose. In the mouth, crisp flavors of apricot and orange burst forth, followed by an invigoratingly sharp finish that begged for another quick sip.

Lucky mold, I thought."

I kept reading and it was like I was there. Smelling, tasting, taking it all in. I heard about Hungarian wines from our Canadian friends Steve and Elsa a couple of years ago when I told them about my wine cellar in Greece, "You have to go to Hungary and taste the wine there" said Steve. His nephew--his sister's son who is also an architect--has the vineyard-itis affliction and has really got involved in wine growing and wine cellars. We might add Hungary in our wine destinations after reading this article. By the way, go to the above link NYTimes to read the article in its entirety. It is worth it. Enjoy...

Don't miss the slide show...

1998 Ερμίνος--Messinian Local Red Wine

Most people are familiar with one of the the products of the Messinian region--the famous kalamata olives. This area of the Peloponnesian peninsula, however, is rich in history and culture. In addition to its famous olives, it produces excellent olive oil and is one of the best producers of red, white and rose wines.

I had the opportunity to taste one of its local red wines back in 2002. It was a 1998 Ερμίνος (Herminos) red. It was a limited family production and not certain if they are still producing under the same label. It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache Rouge, and Merlot--one of my favorite blends. Deep ruby color, it was still rich in tannins but flavorful. Eight years later, it has a brilliant ruby color, rich body, well balanced, a very pleasant lingering taste, with no signs of decline. Should be good for another 2-5 years.

The Wine Cellar gives it a deserving rating of 91 points.

Meet the Winegrowers of Distomo...

Loukas Kastritis
Winemaking isn't something you do casually. It requires hard work, knowledge, attention to details, organization skills and above all a passion for viticulture. Loukas Kastritis possesses all. Born in a farming family, he was influenced in a young age by relatives who had a love for the land and what it provides. He was initiated in the secrets of viticulture and he has been sharpening his skills and expanding his knowledge ever since. Loukas is perhaps the poster boy of the "weekend residents" and the best winegrower of Distomo. He tends his vineyards with a religious devotion and unmistakable pride. Considering that he is growing grapes for his own use and enjoyment, the quality of wines he produces rivals and in some instances exceeds those commercially produced in Greece and abroad. Often, I find it too difficult to resist the temptation to tell Loukas that he should bottle his wines and build a cellar for preserving and ageing them. Initially, he brushed off the idea as wines "are best young and fresh out of the barrel". But 3-4 months after the barrels are open and in the heat of July and August, I would bring up the subject again as the wines are

noticeably oxidized resulting to an almost undrinkable potion.

In March when I arrived in Distomo this year, Loukas--who is, by the way, my dear cousin--asked me to come to his estate to see something. He took me to the basement of the house where he proudly showed me a recently renovated area which will become his wine cellar. I was extremely pleased both for him and for me as I felt that some of the seeds I have been sowing for the past 4-5 years are sprouting finally. So, stay tuned for further developments in the Loukas Kastritis' Vineyards.

Marc Bredif: 1986 Vouvray--Grand Annee...

Age DOES matter!

Rated 94 points by the Wine Cellar

In a recent post it was mentioned that I had the opportunity to visit the wine cellar of Marc Bredif wines in Vouvray in the Loire Valley of France this past April. What an an extraordinary experience that was! In the 2 km cellar, Marc Bredic Vouvray wines are perhaps the oldest white wines still available. Most people believe that white wines peak between 5 and 10 years--and that may be true for most wines. But the Vouvray wines we saw and tasted disprove that myth and the reason may be the almost ideal conditions of the Marc Bredif cellar.

We tasted several of the Marc Bredif wines, but the 1986 Vouvray, Grand Annee white was one of the best whites I have ever tasted--perhaps the best. Brilliant light gold color, full body, with all the wonderful complex flavors a 24 years old wine brings. Great balance of sweetness and fruits. A very pleasant lingering after taste. A truly great wine. It was the first time for me to taste a quality wine at a winemaker's cellar and undoubtedly the proper preservation of the wine does make a difference. You never know how well the wines are preserved from the time they leave the winemaker till they reach the consumer half the way around the world...

I have no illusions that I will ever taste wines that are rated in the 95 to 100 points range. And to be frank, I am not sure I would be able to fully appreciate the greatness of such wines. For that reason, I will have to rate this one nearly the top of my scale--94 points which professional wine tasters might find a bit high...I regret that I didn't bring with me a few bottles. Once I return to the US in the fall, I will try to locate the 1986 Vouvray--and if I do, hope I can afford it...

There are wines and then, there are French Wines...

Some of you reading my blog during the past two weeks might think that I have become an agent for French wines with the abundantly positive comments I have been making about them. Well, not really. It's that one must recognize quality and be willing to admit it. And it's not just the French wines. It's the French mind set about growing, making, and preserving wine that sets the standard. Every country--including mine--brags about its wine. The French do too, but they have a good reason to do so.

I had the opportunity to visit the Maison Bredif--the Wine Cellar of Marc Bredif in Rochecordon in the Loire Valley of France. By the way, one needs to redefine the term wine cellar when referring to Marc Bredif. It consists of 1.2 mile-long and centuries-old abandoned lime stone galleries that at one time provided the building stones for many of the cathedrals and chateaux of France. Entering the wine cellar was a spiritual experience for me. The barrels and bottles--dusty and cobweb covered--in the glow of candles inside the man-made caves gave the feeling of a medieval Byzantine monastery.

We were escorted by Matthieu--a delightful, knowledgeable and friendly young man--who made our wine touring experience most enjoyable. One of the bonus benefits, by the way, of visiting wineries and wine cellars around the world, is often meeting the wonderful people behind the wines. Matthieu was one of those people. We left Vouvray and the Loire with the best of memories--hope to visit again this wonderful part of France...

The French Connection...

There is a long list of reasons for visiting Paris--the Louvre, Eiffel Tower, the Versailles, Notre Dame--but for me it is distilled down to two things: French wine and French bread...Well, I have to be honest--I do love architecture and art too. A couple of days ago we traveled to Fontainebleaux--SE of Paris--and were fortunate to catch the open market. What an amazing display of fresh produce, meat, fish, cheese, bread, and other goodies. It was like being eight years old and walking into a candy store--for me a cookie store...

The aromas of the bread and vegetables were fantastic. And although cheese doesn't rank as high as bread and wine in my epicurean scale, one can't overlook the cheeses in France. With more than 400 types of them, France is unquestionably the place to be if you are a cheese lover.

It's mid April and Spring is evident everywhere. Tulips are spectacular and the air is saturated with the delicate smell of flowers and the fresh smell of emerging grass and budding trees. Renoir must have been inspired by these sights in many of his well-known paintings. Oh, yes, Paris is where people fall in love again and again...

Wines of Crete...

Crete has the most traditional vineyard of Europe. Grape cultivation has taken place in Crete since the Minoan era, 4,000 years ago . The vineyards of Crete produce white, rose and red wines as well as raisins from the variety "Soultanina" and the table grape "Rozaki". Visit the Wines of Crete for an incredible journey to the heartland of the oldest Greek civilization, but be prepared for going back again and again. Breathtaking landscapes, rugged terrains, and the fiercely independent, proud and most hospitable Cretans will make it an unforgettable experience.

Homecoming...

I am home again. After weeks of great anticipation and days of uncertainty and frustration with air travel, we arrived in our home in Distomo. It was a beautiful spring day as if nature was rewarding me for being faithful to my annual ritual. Everything was clean, fresh and green as a result of a rather mild and very wet winter. The tulips and crocuses were showing off their bright red, yellow and pink petals. The almond and apricot trees had shed their flowers already--which I regret every year for missing their spectacular display of white and pink flowers. The fig and cherry trees were brave enough to permit some buds to appear on their otherwise bare branches. But what caught my immediate attention were the first buds on the vineyards. You see, this is the event that I have been dreaming about for the past three months. This is the very first step in the long process of grape growing. I will be watching closely every phase of their growth in the next five months.

Oh, I almost forgot to tell you...In the morning after our arrival, I went to the wine cellar to say hello to my wines. I felt my heart pounding as I opened the heavy wooden door. In the dimly lit room I walked along its perimeter and surveyed the bottles nestled in their wooden racks. Then, I went to check the temperature and humidity recorded on a gadget resting on one of the racks. It showed that the temperature had fluctuated between 56 and 56.7 degrees Fahrenheit and the humidity was almost constant at 75 %--not bad for a wine cellar...I was relieved that all was well with my precious friends. We have a lot to look forward to during the summer...

Wine Tours: Nemea

Overshadowed by French and other European wines, Greek wines are finally receiving attention and respect. There are excellent wine tours in Greece and there is no better way to learn about some of Greece's finest wines than to visit the famous wineries of Nemea in the peninsula of Peloponnese in southern Greece. Not only it has excellent wines, it's one of the premier travel destinations rich in history, culture and natural beauty.

The Wines of Greece...

Wine isn't just what you find in a bottle and pour in a glass. With its complex flavors and aromas, it's also about the soil the vines grow on, the people who tend them, the culture and traditions of the folks who live in the villages nearby. There is a whole new world out there that is embracing the vineyards and wine makers that is awaiting for the rest of us to discover. There are countless wine destinations in Greece. Each one waiting to welcome you to an unforgettable experience. This video is but one of these destinations.

Enter the new era of Greek wine (music) part1...

Join me in discovering the hidden treasures of Greek wines. Although this video is by a wine producer, my goal is to highlight the new era of wine making in Greece and the potential it presents to the development of wine tourism.

Spring and Easter...

Spring and Easter are intrinsically linked with Greek countryside and villages. There aren't many things in the Greek psyche that combine nature, religious devotion, tradition, family, food and--yes--wine. And the best setting for this unparalleled national celebration are the myriad picturesque villages throughout Greece--mine included. Every year I can't wait to see the colorful tapestry of wild flowers, smell the scent of the fresh earth at down, and watch the rays of the rising sun pierce through the low-hanging fog over the vineyards and the glistening droplets of water gliding on the needles of the cypress trees. This vivid recollection of the powerful sensual experiences during the first days of my return back to the village in the spring is what keeps me connected with all that's very dear to me and pulls me back like a magnet every spring.

During Easter, the crown jewel of Greek holidays, a mass exodus ensues from just about every city in Greece to the countryside, specifically small traditional villages. The main attraction, of course, is to visit with family and friends and feast in the traditional roasted lamb, and superb pitas, feta cheese, yogurt and wines that are locally grown. But if you don't have family in Distomo, you always have a lot of friends that are always happy to see you come. The village is regaining its old character, that of a vacationing spot for inner city Greeks and is experiencing an influx of Athenians who are becoming regular visitors on a year-round basis. A few have bought land where they plan to plant vineyards and build a vacation home. Others, visit the village on a regular basis to escape the hectic life of the cities and enjoy its clean air and relaxed lifestyle.

Lodging is still challenging especially during the high demand seasons of Easter, June 10 and mid-August. It is recommended to book in advance during these periods to ensure comfortable accommodations. There are a few facilities being added and old ones renovated. One new lodging facility worth mentioning is The Ancient Wall (Το Αρχαιο Τειχος) built on a segment of the prehistoric wall of the town's citadel. It's an excellent facility where many of our friends have stayed. This site will monitor the develpment of additional lodging accommodations and report on them from time to time here and elsewhere in this site. Additionally, you can find more information about hotels and restaurants in the official website of the town (Distomo).

Starting the summer of 2010 The Wine Cellar will organize wine tasting events. There will be open to a small number of visitors because of limited space. The events will be announced in advance and will be available on those only with confirmed reservations. Only locally grown wines will be featured. So stay tuned for more on this...

Wine Destinations...

Wine is not just what you find in a bottle and pour in a glass. With its complex flavors and aromas, it is also about the soil the vines grow, the people who tend them, the culture and traditions of the folks who live in the villages nearby. There is a whole new world out there that has embraced the vineyards and wine makers and which is awaiting for the rest of us to discover. And this is one of the best pleasures that I derive from wine. There is no place that I either visit or plan to visit that I don't think whether it has vineyards and wine and how good they may be. Yes, there have been disappointments along the way as my expectations sometimes exceed reality. But once in a while, I come across a vineyard and their wine tasting facilities and that makes the "treasure hunt" worth while indeed!

Anyone that is remotely involved with wine should have heard of the legendary vineyards of Tuscany, France, Spain, Mendoza, Chile and so on. These should be the travel destinations of every eonophile, as they are mine. But there are countless other less known, or not known at all places out there that are less glamorous but as beautiful in their own way, and which they offer very good wines. I am fortunate to live in Distomo, one of these wonderful places.